Bhutan Mushroaming

Mushroaming Bhutan

Mushrooms, Mountains & Monasteries
tent August 9 to 23, 2024
Check out the subtitled photo galleries from 2018 trip,  2019 trip and 2023 trip

The clouds lifted and allowed a peek at the most stunningly located Taktsang Goenba, the Tiger's Nest (3050m / 9970ft).

Cheri's wooden cantilever bridge decorated with Five elements prayer flags.

Itinerary Mushroaming Bhutan 2023
Please note that we might still make a few changes to optimize the tour. 

Friday 8/18    -   Arrival Paro & Thimphu
Arrive at Paro Airport (2240m / 10,900 ft) . Drive to Thimphu, Bhutan's capital. On the way get first impressions of the stunning architecture, landscape and biodiversity in the little kingdom. Mushroom sellers might line the road. In Thimphu light sightseeing, e.g. drive to Buddha Dordenma statue towering over Thimphu, and relaxed evening with a Chanterelle dinner. Druk Hotel

 8/19    -  Thimphu (2,400 m / 7,900 feet))
Hike up to Phajoding monastery, founded in the 13th  Century by Phajo Drugom Zhigpo (1184-1251), who spread the Drukpa Kagyu teachings of Buddhism in Bhutan. The path leads through beautiful forest.  Later selected sightseeing e.g. Takin reserve and Changangkha LhakhangTrashichoedzong, etc. Druk Hotel

8/20    -   Thimphu to Punakha or Wangdue
In the morning visit the mushroom center at Yusipang. Later drive to Dochula (3100 m / 10,200 ft) with stunning views in clear weather and mystical atmosphere if in the clouds. Optional forest walk around the pass in magical giant Rhododendron, hemlock & birch-forest covered by "Dakini hair" lichens or hike (4 hours, moderate climb to 3600m / 11,800ft) up to Lungchutse Lhakhang.  Later drive to Punakha or Wangdue (both 1310 m / 4,300 ft).

8/21       -   Punakha
Visit the famous Punakha Dzong, an architectural gem. Walk through rice fields to Chime Lhakhang founded in 1499 by Ngawang Choegyel. Earlier, the place was blessed by the famous and popular Saint Drukpa Kuenley. He is said to have subdued a demoness here who committed monstrous deeds, torturing travelers between Thimphu and Punakha. Later visit Gaselo village, take your lunch there and explore the forests with a local guide.

 8/22    -  Punakha to Chumey
All day drive with sightseeing stops incl. Chendibje Chorten and Bhutan's biggest "castle" Trongsa Dzong (2075 m / 6,800 ft). After Trongsa we cross Yatong La Pass (3440 m / 11,260 ft) before entering the famous Bumthang Valley (2800 m / 9186 ft), where Chumey is located. Evening rest in a beautiful and quiet resort with a little temple in the courtyard.  

8/23    -   Chumey to Ura     -    Matsutake Festival (tent. festival is not officially announced yet) 
For participants interested we will try to arrange a visit to Tharpaling Monastery which was founded by Longchenpa (1308-1363) and also used as place of meditation by Jigme Lingpa, Nyoshul Khenpo and Dilgo Khyentse. Drive to picturesque Ura village (3140 m / 10,300 ft) and enjoy the Matsutake Festival together with the village folks. Learn about their art and crafts, traditional lifestyle, folk songs and dances, regional food and drink, etc. Home stay

8/24    -   Ura   -     Matsutake Festival (tent. festival is not officially announced yet) 
Another day at the festival with many activities e.g. mushrooming in the forest, display of local products and crafts in little stalls, folk songs and dances and home cooked meals at village houses.  Home stay

8/25    -   Ura to Tang
First hike up to Singmela pass on 4000m with breath taking view of snow mountains and stunning flora, fauna & funga. Later drive along the old highway to Tang’s Orgyen Choling guesthouse. The lady of the house authored the book "Chili & Cheese” which highlights the role of food in Bhutanese society. On the way we visit Mebartsho, the “burning lake”, out of which the yogi Terton Pema Lingpa in 1475 retrieved an important teaching cycle though his original intention was to search for mushrooms (details). 

8/26    -  Tang
After breakfast visit the interesting museum at Orgyen Choling palace (2900 m / 9,500 ft). Later explore beautiful subalpine Tang valley together with locals Bhutanese. Pass through charming villages and take your lunch at a local home.

8/27  -   Tang to Choekor

Hike to adjacent valley of Choekhor and visit Tag Rimochen Lhakhang and Pema Choling nunnery on the way. It is a pleasant walk uphill through pastures and forest till you reach Choekhor (2600 m / 8,600 ft). Check out the little district town Jakar.

8/28    -   Choekhor
Today you can either visit the National Park office in Choekhortoe or hike up to Petsheling temple from where you have stunning views of Choekhor valley. The latter includes a steep climb through gorgeous forest. Later visit the most important temples in the valley: Tamshing-, Kurje- and Jampey lhakhang.

8/29    -  Flight to Paro
Morning flight from Bumthang airport in Jakar (2550 m / 8,500 ft) to Paro (2240m / 10,900 ft). Excursion to picturesque Pangbisa valley, a little gem in the otherwise rapidly developing Paro district. Walk to Guru Lhakhang and take your lunch in a heritage farmhouse. Later stroll through Paro town. Gangtey Palace Hotel

8/30    -  Paro Taktsang
Hike to Taktsang Monastery  (3050m / 9,970 ft), the world famous Tiger’s nest monastery nestled into a sheer cliff high above the lush valley. Gangtey Palace Hotel

Thursday 8/31    -    Departure day
Mushroaming fellowship disperses


Notes: The itinerary is not final. We might still need to do some changes and add a few more items, such as cultural events (music, textile etc.) and enjoying a traditional herbal hot bath. We are working with Bhutan Homestay, their web page gives a nice idea of the scope of possibilities. Regarding home-stays, during our Kongpo Tibet tour I fell in love with integrating home-stays in our trips. Many home owners are mushroom hunters themselves and accompany us into the woods. Once back we can cook with the hosts or use their kitchen, the perfect setting!  I am very excited!  In addition travel in Bhutan can be strenuous, one factor being altitude, furthermore the roads can be challenging, especially during mushroom season, which is of course during the summer monsoon. So rain coats and umbrellas are a good thing to bring along.  Also, hunting for mushrooms can include walking up steep slopes with no trails and there are possibly bears in the woods. You must be well on your feet since we will do some hikes as well.


2018 Participant comment:
Daniel, I was just talking with a friend about our Bhutan trip and it occurred to me how meaningful the trip was
 -- not just the mushroom hunting (beyond awesome), the scenery (gorgeous) and the culture; and not just the people individually (what a great group) but the entire package was really so much more than the parts. I have been in the Himalayas a few times and this was the first time I felt profoundly connected to them.

Thank you for putting together an incredible experience.


Jerry Nickelsburg, PhD

Adjunct Professor of Economics - Anderson School of Management, UCLA



Links:  Druk Hotel    Tashiyoedling    Ecolodge    Dhumra farm resort    Chumey Nature Resort    Bangpa Heritage farmstay   Rinchenling lodge      Gangtey palace   Hotels can also be found on trip advisor 

Our guide Karma with delicious Himalayan Caesar mushrooms (Amanita hemibapha)

Land Costs: $ tba [with 10 to 13 participants] - 202
with 7-9 participants $tba]
includes all accommodation, meals, overland transport, entrance fees
Single room supplement: $450
for registration after Jan. 21, 2024 add late fee: $400

Additional costs

to Bangkok: $600 - 1200 rt; International tickets to Bangkok need to be purchased individually by participants. However, we need to coordinate the flight to Paro, Bhutan from Bangkok (or Delhi). Costs of flights to Bhutan from Bangkok are around $900 rt and Delhi around $700 rt.
One flight within Bhutan on Aug. 29 from Bhumtang to Paro is about $220. Tickets and visas will be purchased by our agent in Bhutan

Other expenses: Souvenirs, alcoholic beverages, hotel bar, phone & laundry, herbal hot baths etc, tips for Bhutanese guides.
Link to my Fungi magazine article on Bhutan's Buddha Mushroom as pdf

A nice haul of Boletus reticulceps,  the Netcap King bolete, a spruce-associate common in subalpine forests in Bhutan and Eastern Tibet

Dances at the Ura matsutake festival. Note the food stands in the back!

Bhutan's inviting capital Thimphu is populated by about 100,000 people. In front Thimphu Chu running at 2250 m / 7400 ft.

Super tasty chanterelle pizza enjoyed at Druk Hotel in Thimphu!
A stone relief seen at Dochu La of Ngawang Namgyal or Zhabdrung Rinpoche (1594–1651) who unified Bhutan as a nation-state and also sought to create a distinct Bhutanese cultural identity separate from the Tibetan culture from which it was derived.

A stinkhorn, probably Phallus impudicus, which is common in pine forests. The core of the egg is quite enjoyable eaten raw.

Sese Shamu as Cantharellus cf cibarius is known in Dzongkha. The Chanterelle is highly esteemed and very popular in Bhutan and most are found in oak forests.
The Buddha Mushroom - Tricholoma matsutake. We will participate in a matsutake Festival in Ura, Eastern Bhutan.
Matsutake are mostly collected for export to Japan. Where ever found, markets have sprung up in the last decade.

Yeshe Tsogyal's retreat house in Tiger's Nest / Tak Tsang.
The Himalayan Gypsy (Cortinarius / Rozites emodensis) can be abundant in the woods. It is a choice edible closely related to the Gypsy mushroom (Cortinarius caperatus / Rozites caperata) of the Northern hemisphere. 

Allium wallichii, a wild Himalayan onion seen near Thowdrak, Bumthang 

The 2019 Mushroaming Fungal Fellowship.  During a short stop at an old-growth spruce forest we found Netcap King boletes (Boletus reticuloceps),  Ochre Himalayan Caesars (Amanita hemibapha var ochracea or now A. ochracea) and Blewits (Lepista cf nuda). The next mushroom meal was secured!

Trongsa Dzong is the largest dzong fortress in Bhutan, located in the centre of the country. Built on a spur overlooking the gorge of the Mangde River, a temple was first built here in 1543 by Ngagi Wangchuk. In 1647, his great-grandson Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal (Shabdrung or Zhabdrung being his title) built the first dzong to replace the temple, which was added on through the Centuries. Photo: ©Bhutan Homestay.

Phajoding Monastery was founded in the 13th Century by Phajo Drugom Zhigpo (1184-1251). However most of the impressive buildings were constructed in 1748 by Gyelwa Shakya Rinchen (1710-1759), the 9th Je Khenpo who is considered to be the reincarnation of Rechungpa, the heart disciple of Milarepa. 
A sacred spring below Tango and Chari Goenba with a big carved and painted Padmasambhava image.
Two Bhutanese ladies selling chanterelles, corals and corn along the Thimphu-Paro highway.
A dark blue-gray chanterelle (Craterellus cornucopioides) known as the Horn of Plenty.
It is an excellent edible, but is not often eaten in Bhutan because of its dark color. We cooked it up and it was wonderful.
 Chanterelles, corals and matsutake are the most common commercial mushrooms.
Also visible in this picture in the lower center are "Ripongkar", a Lyophyllum.

The countryside in Zamto Village, Genekha, surrounded by oak-pine forests rich in matsutake and other fungal resources in an altitude of around 3000m.

A young sulfur shelf (Laetiporus sp.), a very tasty and unusual textured edible mushroom.
Matsutake-festival Ura Bhutan
Dances during the Matsutake-festival in Ura.
Terraced slopes with farm houses in Punakha.
Lush Himalayan forests along the Lungchutse trial.
Check out the photo galleries from our Mushroaming adventures in 2018 and in 2019

 Check out Bhutan Network USA, a small, but great NGO working on supporting rural Bhutanese making a living off the land, where I am serving on the board and working on their mushroom projects, like teaching people that their porcini are choice edibles and not poisonous as the local knowledge believes.
We support Bhutan Network Austria and BN USA project work in Bhutan


Farmhouses above rice fields near Paro.
Link to my Fungi magazine article on
Bhutan's Buddha Mushroom as pdf
Last revision Jan. 7, 2023

Last edited on Fri, September 29, 2023, 6:02 pm